AHHHH!

[Vasquez]

CounterStrike Source crashed my PC so I tried to reboot. I held down the restart button and noithing happened. So I hit the power switch on the back of my case, then flip it on and start the machine.

The ABIT mobo logo appears and then I get a screen with a few bits of boot-up writing and a message saying something like "This computer has been started in fail safe mode" and "please recheck BIOS CMOS".

It then says I can enter setup or continue. I've looked in setup but I really don't want to fiddle with anything unless I know exactly what I'm doing, and right now, I don't.

HELP!

[Echor]

That doesn't sound like CS S was the cause of the crash, unless it got overheated by playing the game, that sounds more like hardware failure, could be so many things. :(

Just go into your bios, read through it, you will find a button that loads "optimised defaults" click on that, push F10, except the change and allow it to reboot.

Warning, if you don't know what you are doing in the bios, don't delve into it atm, just let it set itself up.

Is this a shop built comp, or home? if the above fails and its shop built, take it back.

[Vasquez]

Shop built-ish.

It's all regular components that you'd buy in the shops, but I had the shop put it together for me. However, my warranty has run out and I don't really wanna take it back anyway.

So even though I don't know anything about bios, still restore optimized defaults?

[Echor]

Shop built-ish.

It's all regular components that you'd buy in the shops, but I had the shop put it together for me. However, my warranty has run out and I don't really wanna take it back anyway.

So even though I don't know anything about bios, still restore optimized defaults?

Set Optimised Defaults in bios, see if it boots, let us know the outcome?

[Vasquez]

Ok will do on next boot :)

[Vasquez]

Done.

Booted PC, typed in password, heard the XP music and then vwoom. PC restarted itself. Tried again and no problems. ???

[Echor]

Done.

Booted PC, typed in password, heard the XP music and then vwoom. PC restarted itself. Tried again and no problems. ???
How much have you used it since?

[Vasquez]

That was the first time.

I went to play CS:S a lil while ago and the PC rebooted itself again. Then I got through to CS:S but before I could play a game it rebooted again! I've gone into setup and set it to fail safe. Hasn't rebooted yet, gonna go pay CS now and see...

Btw, my CPU temp is ~45 degrees C. Is that bad?

[Vasquez]

PC still reboots. Does so even wen not playing games.

Got error message just now saying Windows had recovered from a series problem.

Had similar thing a few months ago caused by gfx card overheating due to broken fan.

PLEASE HELP!

[Echor]

This could be so many things :(

I'm assuming that the comp was stable beforehand?

Do you know how to take components out of the comp and refit them? If you do you could try reseating the ram and gfx card, and any other cards in there also, if you don't, do you know someone that does?

Another thing, go to the system folder in the control panel, open it and go to advanced, there is a section there about start up and shut down, set it so that it doesn't automatically reboot itself (the default is to reboot), that way you will get a blue screen with lots of data on it when it crashes. Its that data I'd like a look at, probably something like: Stop error: xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx etc

Sometimes errors don't bring up that blue screen, but I'd definately set it up so that it can.

[Vasquez]

I've never fitted a component myself before.

I've done what you said about the restarting.

Is there anywhere you could reccoment posting for help?

Btw, I'm using a Radeon 9800 pro, Athlon64 3500+ and 1gb PC3200 RAM.

[Daymare]

to me that sounds like the cpu overheating, have you checked the pc health in bios and checked how hot the cpu is? if its above water boiling point thats a bad thing ;)

[Vasquez]

CPU temp is between 40 and 50 degrees C.

What can I do to cool it down in the short term?

BIOS healthcheck??? :S

Oh, it shutdown and went to a blue screen with no writing. Had to switch it off manually. Now it just reboots.

[Echor]

Can you list in detail the components in the comp, the power supply make model etc, motherboard make model, the whole lot please?

[Vasquez]

Motherboard id an ABIT AV8 3rd Eye. Power supply is a Chieftec 300w that came with my Chieftec Dragon case. I don't know the make of my RAM but it's PC3200 DDR RAM in 2 sticks of 512mb. My 9800 pro is a Gigabyte. My HDD is 120gb, 7200rpm. I'm afraid I do not know make or model.

I've had error messages the past couple of times.

First one was 0x0000008E (0x0000005, 0x0000027F, 0xB82B6328, 0x00000000). Message talked about checking I have adegquate disk space, disabling BIOS memory options and checking drivers if drivers were mentioned (which I assume thay wern't).

Second one was 0x0000007G (0x00000000, 0x00000000, 0x00000000, 0x00000000) and talked about running a diagnostic program from my hardware manufacturer and disabling/removing new software and hardware.

I have no new software but I have just plugged in my new Logitech MX510 mouse. I havn't installed the software that came with it though.

My CPU temp is ranging from 40 to 62 degrees C now. My system temp is in the high twenties and my PWM temp is high thirties/low forties.

I have a cooling system attached to my 9800 pro, the standard AMD heatsink and fan on my CPU, and two case fans (one side, one back). Plus the fans on my PSU.

[Echor]

300w power supply is the most likely answer, that board is picky about power supplies and you have a gfx card that uses plenty of power also. I'd be using a power supply of nearly double that with little stuff inside, and at least double that if I was running high powered gfx cards/fans/peripherals together.

Have a read on this (http://forum.abit-usa.com/forumdisplay.php?forumid=49) forum, loads of people with similar problems.

(This comp has that board, it can work fine :) )

Your temps, again read that forum, if you are using the latest bios, that 62C is too high, but also worth noting that these boards aren't known for reading temps correctly (Mine reads mid 40s when playing PS)

[Vasquez]

I'm looking at PSUs. I can't afford to spend £75 plus. Will 480w be enough?

Are Hiper or Q Tec any good? They're quite cheap. £50 to £60 would be best I think.

Should I get a new CPU cooler? Add a case fan? Use cooling paste? How much cooling paste do you use how often? I odn't want to be spending £10 a month on coolnig paste...

Do you think using system resotre would help?

[Echor]

I'm looking at PSUs. I can't afford to spend £75 plus. Will 480w be enough?

Are Hiper or Q Tec any good? They're quite cheap. £50 to £60 would be best I think.

Should I get a new CPU cooler? Add a case fan? Use cooling paste? How much cooling paste do you use how often? I odn't want to be spending £10 a month on coolnig paste...

Do you think using system resotre would help?
Do you know anyone that could lend you a power supply first? Before you splash out loads of money?

To work out the size you need, you have to add up the current used by your comp, here (http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/) is a tool to simplify that.

The cpu cooler supplied with the chip is ok, there are better, but it should cope, if it couldn't AMD wouldn't supply it.

Don't mess about with cooling paste if you haven't got knowledge of taking your comp appart, firstly its a one off job, if its there, the job is done, the stock cooler will have paste on it. (btw AMD don't recommend most of the supposedly good pastes, they are too sticky, and make removing the cooler very very difficult, often causing the chip to be pulled off the motherboard, which can break the pins on it)

What cooling fans does the case have at present?

System restore is for software problems, this doesn't look like a software problem, but no harm in trying either.

[Vasquez]

Erm... I doubt there's anyone.

Would it help to try moving the jumper position? I saw some people talking about this...

I'll check the fan when I get home.

If I do need a new PSU, what wattage, make, model etc would be best for my budget?

[Echor]

Erm... I doubt there's anyone.
This really needs testing before spending money, there is a possiblity that your power supply can cope, but it may itself be overheating, causing erratic supply, also it might not be the problem at all, its just the first thing I'd check on the list you gave as its a common problem.

Would it help to try moving the jumper position? I saw some people talking about this...
Which jumper and on what?

I'll check the fan when I get home.
Your case is known for good cooling generally, assuming that it has at least one intake fan, I (and others) mentioned heat, try running the comp with the side off, preferably with a desk fan blowing in. If its stable like that its part of the answer, but if it is, adding powerful fans might overload the psu and cause identical symptoms, even though its for a different reason.

If I do need a new PSU, what wattage, make, model etc would be best for my budget?
Wattage I covered in the last message on the link, make and model, that's another can of worms, many people have strong personal preferances to brands, but can't seem to understand why major system builders supply reliable machines with brands they consider junk, so much to do with bragging rights rather than function :(

The things you need to look at are the wattage on the outputs, many psu's claim to be x wattage, but when you look at the total combined maximums often fall way short of that claim.

Where do you live, I have plenty of psu's around here that would power your comp, could lend you one if you are close. (uk glos)

[Vasquez]

UK Berkshire right now.

Can pay for postage if that helps.

Ok, I'll try using a desk fan.

The mo bo jumper from 1-2 to 3-4 or vice versa (dunno wot it is at the moment...)

[Vasquez]

Using desk fan now. I've got it blowing diagonally in from the front with my case fan at the back sucking out. That good?

I've done a system restore but it still restarts. Don't know if fan is helping yet...

Also, if it helps:

My CPU voltage (the one hat's displayed on the lil clock that comes with the 3rd Eye) is 1.54v

DDR is 2.72v

and AGP is 1.61v

Btw, my PSU is 360w, not 300. And according to that calculator, I need a minimum of 253 watts.

[Echor]

Using desk fan now. I've got it blowing diagonally in from the front with my case fan at the back sucking out. That good?
Assuming you've taken the side of the case off that sounds good
My CPU voltage (the one hat's displayed on the lil clock that comes with the 3rd Eye) is 1.54v

DDR is 2.72v

and AGP is 1.61v

Btw, my PSU is 360w, not 300. And according to that calculator, I need a minimum of 253 watts.Voltages look ok, now with the side of the case off, what does it say on the side of the psu, what are the max currents for the 12v 5v and 3v rails (not interested in the -v ones)

[Vasquez]

5v = 35a

3.3v = 28a

12v = 17a

[Echor]

5v = 35a

3.3v = 28a

12v = 17aThis needs testing, as the 12v line is low, but so close, general recomendation is to have 18a minimum, more if you run peripherals from it, like fans, displays, cd burners, gfx cards, etc.

Did the shop that assembled your comp recomend this setup?

[Vasquez]

I specifically asked if the PSU was up to it when I orginally bought my PC. They then upgraded my PC just under a year later with a new mobo and CPU. They said nothing about needing a new PSU.

Peeps on the Abit forums seem to think it's that too, but that it could also be a RAM overheating problem.

I'll run this memory test they linked me to, and if that's ok I'll buy a new PSU tommorow or on Saturday (and get them to make sure it will be sufficient). Sound good? Any makes of PSU I should avoid?

[Echor]

I specifically asked if the PSU was up to it when I orginally bought my PC. They then upgraded my PC just under a year later with a new mobo and CPU. They said nothing about needing a new PSU.

Peeps on the Abit forums seem to think it's that too, but that it could also be a RAM overheating problem.

I'll run this memory test they linked me to, and if that's ok I'll buy a new PSU tommorow or on Saturday (and get them to make sure it will be sufficient). Sound good? Any makes of PSU I should avoid?Nice post on that forum :)
Makes to avoid, funnily enough one of the best known makes of the lot, Antec, it has not got amperage issues, it has timing issues that can cause it to fail to boot on these boards, the very latest ones are supposed to have been modded to prevent this problem, but there are still reports of some failures, so best avoided (which annoyed me, as I have a few of them).

Have a look at this (http://www.bleedinedge.com/guides/psu_select/psu_select_06.html), it might help

[Vasquez]

Um...I'm confused. I was told I need like 24 amps on the +12v rail. But according to those chartes, I only need about 14 amps :S

[Echor]

Um...I'm confused. I was told I need like 24 amps on the +12v rail. But according to those chartes, I only need about 14 amps :S
Those charts only list a few items (assuming you are talking about this (http://www.bleedinedge.com/guides/psu_select/psu_select_06.html) link).

I see no mention of the motherboard and fans there, or any peripherals.

Also for safey's sake, and to allow for the ability to add a little more to the comp you have to add to that figure also.

I quoted a figure of 18a (pretty much the lowest figure to boot a basic AMD 64 system), with the caveat that you'd need more for your peripherals, so its not hard to get to 24 amps (personally I'd go for more, I might want to add something in the case in 6 months time)

Also on that article, I linked to the last page, scroll to the bottom, choose page 1 and read on, its a very good article. (I only linked to it to show manufactures, its worth reading from the beginning though).

You also probably see why I suggest borrowing one (sorry can't post one, the postage costs there and back are over half the cost of a unit), it needs testing.

[Vasquez]

I looked at some Zalman PSUs on their website but they were all 18a on the +12v rail...

and I couldn't find that a,perage on the Akasa ones at all...

Am I missing something?

I do know that the shop I'm going to has a 500w FSP Blue Storm PSU. Any good, do you know? On the specs it has a 15a 12v rail and a 16a one. Does this mean it has a total of 31a and is therefore perfect for me?

[Echor]

Plenty here (http://www.overclockers.co.uk/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Power_Supplies_123.html)
and here (http://www.pricewatch.dealtime.co.uk/xPP-System_Power_Supplies--450___550_watt~S-213)
For a comparison of power supplies, have a look here (http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20050228/power_supply-09.html), this guy is known to be biased, but outright lies in print are libel, so facts are accurate, although sometimes missing, this review is pretty good though.

[Vasquez]

I now have a 500w FSP BlueStorm running in my PC (after several failed installation attempts :/ note to self: attach GPU) and it hasn't rebooted yet. Although I did get a message saying it is running in fail safe mode...

[Vasquez]

NOOOOOOOOOOOO!

It just broke again. It had been on with no trouble for several hours, surfing the net and playing a DVD.

I had just put the side panel back on...but I'veh ad the panel off before and it still broke. And I had a desk fan blowing in.

WTF is wrong with my computer??? :'(

[Fusion]

Whats wrong now?

[Echor]

Same symptoms? and what results did you get with that memory tester, any error's at all?

[Vasquez]

Same symptoms. I couldn't get the memory tests to work. I put the CD in but it goes straight to Windows :S

I'm getting this error when it restarts:

PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA

Btw, thankyou so much for all your help! :D

[Echor]

Does you comp have a floppy drive? that's what I usually use for the memory tests, also no matter how you do the test, you have to set the bios so that the first boot device is the one that has the test on it.

[Vasquez]

Ok. I'll try that...

What should I be looking for in the test results exactly?

[Echor]

Ok. I'll try that...

What should I be looking for in the test results exactly?
Any failures, there should be none.

[Vasquez]

Erm...how exactly do I make my floppy drive/CD drive the first boot device?

And do I have to set it back afterwards?

[Echor]

Erm...how exactly do I make my floppy drive/CD drive the first boot device?

And do I have to set it back afterwards?
Just after you power up the comp, hold down the Del (delete) key, when you hear lots of beeps, let go, that will get you into the bios.

In the bios, under advanced settings, there is a boot list, set the first one to be your floppy if you want to boot from that. To undo it, just set it back to what it was before (make a note).

[Vasquez]

I did the mem test. Got 5 passes and then got bored.

So I assume my RAM is ok, right?

Now what?

[Necto]

In your BIOS look for Boot Sequence or something like it. Should be something like
A: D: C: (Floppy, CDROM, HD). But why would you want todo this? I see no advantage in doing this except maybe installing a new OS (or older computers to save some MEM). Note that each time u will start up your computer it will first look for a floppy then a CD-ROM and the ur hard disk.. booting up will take longer.

[Vasquez]

...did you need read the topic?

I needed to run a memory test from a boot CD. Which means having the CD drive boot before my HDD.

Now I've had two new error messages (they just keep coming!)
One mentions radprobe.sys and a problem with the WMD driver.
The other talked about a driver error and said that the driver had been added to the kernel (???).

[Echor]

Now I've had two new error messages (they just keep coming!)
One mentions radprobe.sys and a problem with the WMD driver.
The other talked about a driver error and said that the driver had been added to the kernel (???).
These messages look like a different problem! But may not be.

But first, run the comp with the side off, are all fans turning?

Have you done your house keeping, that is: run Anti virus software, and scanned for malware/spyware?

These errors point to the gfx card, either its sofware or hardware, that is the software could be wrongly trying to address memory on the card, or that memory might be not working (heat?). Even though these pointers are at the gfx card, it doesn't mean that it is the card at fault, it could simply be that a call is being made to a function (no this isn't a "C" lesson) that is to do with the card, and is failing somewhere along its route. Also it could be a complete red herring, if data is being corrupted, it could be pure cooncidence that it happens to involve the gfx drivers.

Can you remove the gfx card and reseat it, do you know how? precautions such as earthing yourself, not putting your fingers on contacts, pathways etc? (very clean hands, comp plugged into mains, mains turned off at wall, so that only the earth is connected, one hand on chassis, other on card, or if the idea of being plugged into mains is scary, you run a wire to an earthing point, like a water pipe, radiator etc.)

[Vasquez]

Reseat...do you mean put it in a different PCI slot or put it back in the same one?

Will this involve chagning software/BIOS etc? Or will it work just how it did before?

I should be able to do all that... I think...

[Echor]

Reseat...do you mean put it in a different PCI slot or put it back in the same one?

Will this involve chagning software/BIOS etc? Or will it work just how it did before?

I should be able to do all that... I think...
Simply remove, check the slot is clean visually, then put it back in. No other changes for that test.

[Vasquez]

Ok. I couldn't get it to work so I too kit back to where I bought it (it's still in a labour warranty).

They said that when they ran a seperate harddrive, it worked fine so it must be a screwed up Windows installation.

I will probably pick it up tommorow. So as I see it, I have two choices:

reinstall windows

or

get a new harddrive, clean install of Windows on that and transfer all the useful data from old to new

A new HDD costs money but then I don't have much space on my current one... clean install is better but it's a bastard to copy everything over.

What would be best? HDD advice? Tips on reinstallind Windows? (never done it before)

[Echor]

If you've not installed windows before, I'd suggest that you disconnect the drive that you have with all your data on, that will keep it safe.

As for the type of hard drive, that is really up to you, how much you want to spend, how much space you want. I like the Seagate 7200.8 disks, fast and not too costly.

Installing windows, read and print off articles on the web, here (http://www.pcstats.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=1435&page=2) is one, its not a few odd comments!

[Vasquez]

ehh... I didn't disconnect my old drive. I hope it's ok... I did disconnect it later though, when I got a disk read error.

I'm installing Windows but when I enter my CD key it says it's not valid.

[Echor]

What drive did you buy and what does the bios show it as?

Cd key, I assume you are using a genuine MS disk? The old drive with the same cd key on it was't connected at that time?

[Vasquez]

A Maxtor 120gb that cost a little over £50.

Yes it's a genuine XP disc etc. No the other drive was not connected. If it dosn't work and I can't find a solution I may have to...acquire a 'new' CD key.

[One Armed Scissor]

its your own fault for changeing your key so you didnt have any legally owpned microsoft products on your pc.

[Vasquez]

Ok. I really fucking hate my PC.

I got into Windows (got CD key working) and:

I cannot connect to the internet

I cannot connect to my network

When I plug in my old hard drive, I get a disk read error

When I plug in my old hard drive and go into the BIOS before disk read error, it does not show up

I'm getting ever so slightly ticked off with my machine

[Echor]

Ok. I really fucking hate my PC.Don't hurt it, its not old enough to know what its doing yet :)

I got into Windows (got CD key working) and:

I cannot connect to the internet

I cannot connect to my networkDid you install the driver for the network card? (assuming you are using the on board one, its on the driver cd that came with the motherboard)

When I plug in my old hard drive, I get a disk read errorWhen you plug it in, where are you plugging it into? You haven't said what type of connection your drives have, Sata or Ide? or one of each?
If they are both ide, are they on the same ribbon, if so the one at the end of the ribbon has to be set as master (use the jumper on the end of the drive near where the ribbon attaches) and the one in the middle has to be slave. Often you'd get away with setting them both as CS (cable select) but as they are both boot drives, I'd recomend against that.

I'm getting ever so slightly ticked off with my machineNot surprised :(

Also don't be surprised if you can never access your original hard drive, if it was that causing the problem all along

[Vasquez]

To top it all off, it appears that when I installed Windows on my new drive, I formatted my old one too.

So all my work, pictures, music, games, programs, files, mods, models, movies and so on...have gone. Also, I accidentally installed Windows on the old drive. So despite taking it to a data recovery place, I expect a lot of the data will be corrupt.

AND I ca'nt even run my PC on the new drive because it says:

"Windows could not start because of the following ARC firmware boot configuration problem: did not properly generate ARC name for HAL and system paths. Please check the Windows documentation about ARC configuration options and your hardware reference manuals for additional information."

But thanks a hell of a lot again. I may have ended up buggering my PC but you helped me do it faster and more efficiently :)

[Echor]

To top it all off, it appears that when I installed Windows on my new drive, I formatted my old one too.Need I say that I mentioned disconnecting the old drive :(

AND I ca'nt even run my PC on the new drive because it says:

"Windows could not start because of the following ARC firmware boot configuration problem: did not properly generate ARC name for HAL and system paths. Please check the Windows documentation about ARC configuration options and your hardware reference manuals for additional information."Sounds like you installed windows on your new drive, but had the old one in at the time? Its probably looking for the files to boot from which would have been written to the main drive (the active partition), regardless of where you installed windows.

There is a way to repair that, but I won't even start on that path, it's complicated, easier to just set your new drive as master if its an ide drive (you still haven't mentioned what drives you have), format it, and reinstall.

If its a SATA drive, you have to install the driver for the disc very early in the setup, by pushing F6 when prompted, and putting in a driver disc, (the cd that came with the motherboard has the driver on it to put on the floppy)

[Vasquez]

It's an IDE, sorry.

I did read what you said, but after I installed it :mad: You see the shop told me what to do but left out that I needed to disconnect the old drive. Me being an idiot, I didn't think to check they were right...

[Echor]

Ide drive, simple then, just put it on the end of the ribbon, not the middle, set it as master on its jumpers, and assuming that you have no other drives hiding that you've not mentioned, just format and install windows.

[Fusion]

Just disconnect the other drive, it will make installation a lot simpler :)

[Vasquez]

Ok, I have my PC working (I THINK) and the odd bit of data they managed to recover. I havn't tried connecting the old hard drive yet though... and I havn't tried palying games either.